10th December – day FIVE – 4,600m > 5,895m > 3,100m altitude – 26km walked
Midnight tea and biscuits, final check of day pack, final layers of clothing, a few more paracetamol and a couple of ibuprofen for good measure. Brush teeth and then we were off….headlamps on, one foot in front of the other. After just half an hour I had to remove a layer of clothing – 6 layers were obviously one too many. Legs were heavy, but had found that to be the case every day for the first hour so wasn’t too worried at this point. We kept moving…slowly…the skies were clearing to reveal the beautiful moon and stars. Quite wonderful to be able to see the stars by just looking straight ahead…
One step at a time, but the steps were becoming more laboured. There was really no energy in my legs or the rest of my body for that matter… I was using my poles (we were about to become the best of friends later in the day!) and even though they were a help, my arms were lacking the strength to use them properly.
As always Joey was walking a few steps behind me and he could see I was struggling…we had a quick chat, he took my day pack (he had anticipated that as he had not brought his own!) and calmly looked me in the eye and said ‘pole, pole – we will make it’. I must admit, at that time I did not believe him! My steps were getting shorter and shorter, the terrain steeper and steeper. I had to stop all the time to catch my breath – the thinner air and the fever was causing havoc with my lungs…Joey was there every time I stopped, encouraging me to keep going…’only short breaks, long breaks will make you cold’
Kara and Roberto were going at a faster pace than me (not difficult!) and they looked in great shape when I saw them at the half way tea break…their encouragement and positive nature helped me a lot – so grateful! We got moving again but the tea break had performed any miracles… I was walking so slowly I didn’t really feel like I was moving at all. I tried to stretch my legs, I hit them to get some life into them, but nothing helped. I was so frustrated – poor Joey, he had to listen to a lot of swearing and abuse… Him: ‘how do you feel?’ Me: Shit! Him: ‘remember to enjoy the mountain’ Me: ‘F*cking mountain, she’s a right bitch!’ Me: ‘whose stupid idea was this?’ Him: ‘yours’ (said with a wry smile) …. He was just amazing, he knew when to leave me alone with my frustrations and when to encourage me…he had so much more confidence in me than I did and he was there with a calm comment or two or a hand in my back when he could see I was losing balance or just needed a push to move forward. Had it not been for him, I would have just curled up in a ball and cried – not caring it was freezing cold on the side of a mountain at 5,000m altitude.
But finally…sunrise. The previous 5 hours had been the longest in my life… But this was spectacularly beautiful and Joey allowed me a longer break for a couple of photos.
Seeing the sun actually came me a bit more energy…so we got going again – one step at a time… Joey: ‘how do you feel?’ Me: ‘still shit!’ Joey laughed and said ‘we’ll get there, I know you can do it!’ I think he had worked out that whilst I was still swearing, there was still fight in me.
The last really steep stretch was to reach the crater rim, which was also called Stella Point at 5,756m…and that was so, so painful. My left hip had started hurting again and the stones underfoot were uncomfortable to walk on. Joey was behind me counting down the minutes to get to the rim… ‘Just 17 more minutes’….’15 minutes…’ I stopped, totally exhausted and in a lot of pain…Joey put a hand on my shoulder and said ‘don’t you want to be able to tell your sister that you made it to the top, too?’ One last deep breath and on I went, ignoring the pain and anything apart from just counting 100 steps at a time…told myself not to look up unless I’d reached 100 steps… ‘8 minutes…’ ‘5 minutes…’ I have no idea if Joey’s minutes were accurate at all, had lost all sense of time, my mind could only focus on counting steps.
Finally we reached Stella Point and how lovely to hear Kara and Roberto’s voices cheering me up the last few steps… And then I just collapsed on my knees, I had nothing left. Joey was there immediately to get me to my feet…’It’s too cold, come and sit away from the wind’ – he gave me a juice for some sugar (not sure where he’d kept that?) and allowed me a five minute break.
He then looked me in the eye and assured me that we were so close…just another 45 minutes to the summit (I didn’t tell him that I did not think that was very close at all!). It was cold and windy, but the sun was shining down on us…so on we went – and probably at the fastest pace for quite a while. I was determined to make it, I felt more energy in my body and more fight…although I guess the fight had been there all along otherwise I wouldn’t have made it that far…
One foot in front of the other…keep going…and there it was! The summit! It was over seven hours since we left camp…I turned around to look at Joey…who looked back at me with a ‘I told you so’ look. He put his arm around me and we walked to the famous sign together. I was so relieved, so exhausted, so emotional…I sat down and cried for a few minutes before I could take in the stunning views… It was really cold but I could finally take a moment to enjoy the achievement – I bloody did it!! Then the compulsory photos…

After 10-15 minutes we were leaving the summit again…it was cold and we needed to be sure not to get altitude sickness by staying too long at the top…and just as we left the summit, reality hit again…and a few more tears because I had to walk all the way down again…it was almost too much to bear! But at least the scenery was amazing!
And the first part of the descent was actually not too bad…the fact that gravity was on our side for the first time in hours helped but it was also tough on the legs… Half way I was getting a lot slower, my big toes started hurting from the pounding they were getting against the front of the boot…but then I saw camp! It was still 45 mins away but it gave a boost…right until Joey started preparing me for the rest of the day. ‘We’re going to get to camp, then you rest for an hour, then lunch and then we have another 4 hour descent to the last camp…’ I stopped abruptly, turned around with tears in my eyes and said ‘ Joey, I really don’t think I can do that…’ He didn’t flicker, he just said: ‘Of course you can, because you have to!’
We reached back at Barafu Camp around 11am. I went straight to my tent which was really warm from the sun, removed all but one layer of clothes and just passed out on the mattress. I slept so well! Until I was woken an hour later (felt more like 10 mins) and it was lunchtime. Still feverish and with no appetite, I just had some watermelon (yes, someone had carried a watermelon to 4,600m!) before I went to lie down again as Kara and Roberto finished lunch. I just wanted to stay in that tent for hours, but the camp was being packed up around me, so had to find some energy to get dressed again…but I was feeling properly miserable!
The first half of the last walk of the day was good terrain, not too steep so could set a decent pace, but then the rocky part came…the poles helped keep me steady, but my big toes were really hurting…I asked Joey how much longer… ‘At this pace another hour and a half’ was his dry answer, leaving it up to me if I wanted to speed up to make it finish sooner, but I just couldn’t. I was in such agony and to Joey’s amusement I even had to start walking sideways to spare the toes a bit, the pain threshold had been reached! Auch!
Finally made it to the last camp…around 6pm. Putting on my flip flops was almost as an amazing feeling as reaching the summit (not really, but it was such a relief!). I was feeling more alert at the lower altitude but was totally exhausted at the same time. Quick dinner – still no appetite, so just had some plain rice and a bit of pineapple… Couldn’t wait to get to my sleeping bag and I fell asleep almost immediately.
At 3am I was wide awake, so wrote my diary and cried for a couple of hours again… It was just so emotional. One thing that struck me when I was writing about the day was that I did not have one toilet break on the way up or down from the summit? Very weird!
Final health check… Slight fever, runny nose, cough, sore sore legs, big toes painful (will lose the nails for sure!), tired back, aching shoulders, no nausea, no appetite, no headache.
Final relections before falling asleep again… A day that I will never ever forget and one that will never be repeated!
– Day five highlight: reaching the summit (of course!)
– Day five lowlight: being woken from my lunchtime nap